How we calculate

One calculation drives everything on this site: the battery size we suggest, which stations pass, and how long each would last. Here is all of it, so you can check our work.

The calculation

For each appliance: average watts = running watts × duty cycle (the share of time it’s actually running). Add them up for the average load. Then for an outage of H hours:

The battery size we show is rounded up (to the next 10Wh, or 50Wh above 1,000Wh). A station passes the energy check only if its runtime is at least H. That’s mathematically the same statement as “its capacity is at least the size to look for,” so the battery size, the verdict and the runtime can never disagree. An earlier version of this planner applied efficiency twice in the filter; we fixed it, and an automated test now sweeps 540 combinations of load, capacity, efficiency, reserve and hours to confirm the three always agree.

Defaults: reserve 10%, extra margin 0%. You can change both under “Fine-tune the numbers.”

Efficiency depends on the load

A station’s AC inverter loses energy in two ways: a proportional conversion loss, and a roughly constant draw just to stay switched on. So small loads get proportionally less of the battery than large ones. We model:

efficiency = average load ÷ (average load ÷ 0.90 + 12W)

That gives about 43% at 10W, 71% at 40W, 76% at 60W, 82% at 110W and 88% at 380W. We chose it to sit within published independent tests: Outdoor Life measured stations delivering 76–92% of rated capacity at about 380W, and 49–77% at about 34W (where our model gives 68%). Some stations did worse at small loads — Outdoor Life’s figures for the BLUETTI AC180 at about 34W were 40–54% — which our cautious case (53% at 34W) reflects. OutdoorGearLab measured a Jackery Explorer 1000 v2 delivering 910Wh of its 1,070Wh. Real stations differ in their idle draw, which manufacturers rarely publish, so this is an estimate.

The three checks

  1. Battery energy — runtime at least as long as the outage.
  2. Running power — the station’s continuous rating is at least the total of everything running at once (all running watts added, a cautious assumption).
  3. Start-up surge — the station’s surge rating is at least everything running at once plus the largest extra start-up spike of any one appliance (its surge watts minus its running watts). If either side is unknown, the station can’t be marked as passing; it shows as “Check the surge.”

Boost modes (EcoFlow X-Boost, BLUETTI Power Lifting) run some heating appliances at reduced power. They are never used as a surge rating. Anker’s SurgePad is its name for the C1000’s actual surge capability.

Verdicts

For medical equipment, passing verdicts are relabeled “Estimate covers it — test first.” Discontinued stations are left out of planner results. Results are ordered by verdict, then smallest-that-works first. Whether a brand has an affiliate program plays no part, and we have no affiliate links.

Appliance figures

Default appliance assumptions (editable in the planner)
ApplianceRunningDutySurgeConnectsBasis
Refrigerator150 W40%800 WStandard 120V plugRepresentative full-size fridge: 150W while the compressor runs, running about 40% of the time (about 1.4 kWh a day). Real fridges range widely; enter the yearly kWh from your yellow EnergyGuide label for a better figure. The 800W start-up surge is a conservative estimate, not a measurement.
Chest freezer100 W30%unknownStandard 120V plugENERGY STAR certified chest freezers (US DOE test procedure) use 201-277 kWh a year - Whirlpool 9.0 cu ft at 201 kWh/yr, Danby 10.0 cu ft at 211, GE 15.7 cu ft at 277 - an average draw of about 23-32W. This preset pairs a 100W compressor draw with a 30% duty cycle to reproduce that average (about 0.72 kWh a day). Neither ENERGY STAR nor DOE publishes a start-up surge for these models, so surge is left unset and the planner asks you to check it.
Wi-Fi router10 W100%15 WStandard 120V plugTypical home router about 10W. A separate modem adds a similar amount; check the watts or volts × amps on each power adapter.
Lights40 W100%40 WStandard 120V plugFour LED bulbs at about 10W each (an 800-lumen LED bulb uses about 9W, per the FTC).
Phone charging15 W50%15 WStandard 120V plugAbout 15W while charging, charging about half the time. Fast chargers can briefly draw more.
Laptop65 W60%90 WStandard 120V plugA 65W charger, drawing its full rating about 60% of the time on average (less while idle, more while charging).
TV110 W100%150 WStandard 120V plugA 55-inch LED TV uses about 100–120W (one ENERGY STAR-certified 55-inch model lists 106W on-mode).
Fan50 W100%75 WStandard 120V plugA box fan on medium is about 50W; window fans range up to a few hundred watts.
CPAP40 W100%90 WStandard 120V plugConservative 40W with a heated humidifier and heated tube. ResMed publishes an average of about 34W for the AirSense 10 with humidifier and heated tube, about 22W with the humidifier only, and about 7W with neither. Your machine and pressure setting change this.
Space heater1500 W50%1500 WStandard 120V plugMost US plug-in space heaters draw 1,500W on high. Shown so you can see what a high-draw appliance does to a battery.

Connection check (added Oct 12, 2026)

Portable stations output 120V AC — the voltage of a standard US wall outlet. Some home loads don’t plug into one: many well pumps, electric ovens and dryers, and larger air conditioners need 240V, and some equipment is hardwired with no plug at all. Watts alone can’t see this: a 240V pump can look easy for a big station on paper while no 120V outlet can ever run it. So every appliance and everything you add carries a connection type, and a 240V or hardwired selection means no station is ever recommended for that load: a station that passes the energy and power checks is marked “can’t power this,” and one that also fails on energy or power names that failure instead — the load is never shown as runnable either way. We never guess a connection type: “not sure” is treated as unverified, the same rule we apply to unknown surge figures. Loads like these belong on a properly installed transfer switch or interlock fed by a 240V-capable source, fitted by a licensed electrician — never on an improvised backfeed.

Product evidence rules

Solar and expansion views

These are shown in a station’s details but never change its verdict. Solar: daily energy ≈ the smaller of your panel watts and the station’s solar input limit × good sun hours × 0.75 (covering heat, angle, wiring and controller losses — an estimate; NREL’s PVWatts tool uses a 14% default system loss before other factors). Expansion: we re-run the energy check at the maximum capacity the maker documents.

Corrections log

Found an error? Email hello@whatstayson.com with the page and, ideally, the manufacturer source. See how corrections work.